I was hanging around the Sydney waited for swell and visiting friends in February.
The east coast was having one of the worst summers for swell ever, shitty onshore waves most days, and loads of shark attacks. I was getting a bit fed up after 4 weeks of no surf and shark alarms.
At last a swell appeared so I was itching to get shooting. Mat Capel was at home in North Narrabeen so I went and stayed with him for a few days. The second day of the swell was pumping. When I started setting up my housing I realised that I left my fish eye in Manly, shocker! Mats dad had to drive me back, took 45mins in all, good start. Then I swam out and my housing steamed up! Fuck sake!
It was perfect surf though, 6ft clean barrels.
In the morning it was huge, cloudy and raining. Zahn Foxton and a few people were towing at low tide, but as the tide came up it got a bit more manageable and the sun came out. There were a solid group of surfers out: Barton Lynch, Ozzy Wright, Matt Capel, Kye Fitzgerald. Kye Fitzgerald had the shot of the day. The wave of Kye's was mental, he had pulled into it right outside and I didn't think he'd make it to where I was shooting on the inside, lucky for me he did and the sequence turned out sick! Kye was riding a 6'10 single fin shaped by his dad, the 70's legend Terry Fitzgerald. There had been a load of shark attacks around Sydney during this time, and as much as I tell myself that its safe and no sharks will bother me, I always feel a bit anxious. Anyway, about half way through this session I took about three sets waves on the head, I was getting smashed around and something grabbed the back of my shorts and started pulling me down. I shat myself and thought my number's up here - it turned out to be a surfer who was panicking and just needed a bit of help!
No comments:
Post a Comment